Chapel at the albergue in Villava. Stefani, Vicki, Steve, Cea & Stan

We left Roncesvalles around 7 a.m. planning to end up in Zubiri. This walk was even harder than the previous days! We did enjoy the countryside views. Our walk was 19.15 miles, but ‘only’ 118 flights of stairs. Catching glimpses of Zubiri as we approached was a welcome sight. We were totally exhausted once we reached Zubiri. 3 days of unrelenting, continuous, long up and down hiking had taken its toll! Besides the distance, the weather has been very warm. Today the high was 93.

We were however concerned that with all of the other pilgrims we saw, there might be a problem getting a bed once we reached our ( and perhaps everyone else’s) destination!

We talked to our new friends Cea and Stan and Stefanie about options if Zubiri was full. Once we reached Zubiri, we found our fears were valid. We inquired at several albergues, hostels and hotels – no beds available.

Several others had found out the same bad news. We went to the Tourism Office for help, and asked if she could call other options in another nearby city. She told us the next two towns were full also. None of us had international cell service yet, so we asked if she could call a cab so we could get to Pamplona. She said no, we should call. Apparently being too helpful was not her job! Finally said she would do that 1 call. The cab picked the 5 of us up in minutes.

We quickly checked options for the cab to drop us off. We found a Parochial Albergue, operated by the Marist Brothers – The Albergue de Trinidad de Arres, and asked the cab driver if he would call to see if they had 5 beds. They did! It was a FIND!

This 12th Century building was the original basilica and Monastery for the region. The surrounding area has a medieval bridge and flour mill. The Albergue was very clean, and our host Domingo wanted to make sure we were happy! You could tell he loved his ‘job’! He spoke no English, but wanted to show and explain to us the sanctuary and all of the areas of the old basilica!

A few of us staying at the Albergue just happened to be heading for dinner at the same time. We had a wonderful Pilgrims dinner together with Cea, Stan, Stefanie, from the US, Lars from Denmark, and Michael from Amsterdam. We shared experiences so far on the Camino as well as getting to know each other.

We are having a great time! Even though the days are grueling we are enjoying new friends and the spiritual atmosphere that surrounds us.

Lars showing 8 year old twins…Pokemon

We departed Villava and headed toward Pamplona- our plan for today was to get a Spanish SIM card for Steve’s phone, see the sights in Pamplona, and call ahead for tonight’s accommodations; somewhere on the other side of Pamplona – which would be determined by availability of beds and how far we think we can walk.

On the way into Pamplona, we met up with Jean, and her 8 year old twin boys –
( she’s homeschooling this year) who are also walking to Santiago, AMAZING! The boys are not so into the walking, but she wants the family time and educational experiences – away from electronics!

Steve asked if it was OK to take a picture of the boys splashing in a water fountain.

We headed into Pamplona, and met up with Lars (he was at our Albergue and dinner last night) on the way just before crossing the old Roman Bridge – we think this is the location in the movie ‘The Way’
where Tom (Martin Sheen) drops his back pack Into the river. Steve took pictures of the old 16th Century bridge and fortress.

As we walked towards the City Gate, Lars found a Pokeman, which he rushed to share with the twin boys. They were excited!

Once we were in the city we decided to stop for breakfast. When he reached into his pocket, he had a panicked look, and realized he did not have his wallet!

Steve’s comment:
“I should have known better than to have my wallet and cell phone in the same pocket. I went back to retrace my steps to see if I could find my wallet. Vicki later retraced the steps further back to look, but she had no success either. Using Wifi and MagicJack I called to cancel the 2 credit cards, and my debit card.

Fortunately Vicki was smart enough to intentionally have debit and credit cards with her own account numbers. Consequently we don’t have to send an email blast to all of our friends asking to wire us money! ”

This changed our plans for the day. We got the SIM card, but found accommodations fully booked anywhere close enough to walk to outside of Pamplona. We spent a bit of time securing beds for the night, and spent the rest of the day visiting the sights.

We continue to run into Pilgrims we have met, and love connecting with them. Now that we may not meet up everyday, we message through Facebook to keep updated. Continue reading →

Steve & Vicki at Alto del Perdon

We left Pamplona around 7:30 heading toward our destination in Puerte la Reina. We have a reservation, so we know we will have a bed once we arrive.

Our trek today covered 18 miles, and 125 flights of stairs. It was a lot of steep up and down rocky trails. We really had to watch our footing especially going down. And it was HOT! The temperature was 98! The trail was mostly along fields, so there was very little shade. We stopped for water anytime we found shade. At one stop we looked back and saw some ruins we would have missed, since one’s focus is usually looking ahead and watching your footing.

The highlight of today was the climb up to ‘Alto del Perdon’ where we saw the metal silhouette sculpture of medieval pilgrims on the way to Santiago. Since we passed by lots of windmills on the way up, we thought (and hoped) we could get some relief from the heat with a breeze. It’s usually windy up there, but not today! The views were great – we could see the trail we had been on and where we were headed.

In Muruzabal there was a young girl selling lemonade in front of her garage. We were more than happy to buy a glass. By this time I was pretty worn out. By Obanos, I pretty much ‘hit a wall’ where I struggled through the last 3 km.

After a shower, dinner, and a nights rest we are ready for whatever tomorrow brings!

This scripture from Romans 5:1-5, was something we reflected on before our Camino, and we continue reflect on it while we walk:

Therefore, since we have been justified by faith, we have peace with God through our Lord Jesus Christ through whom we have gained access (by faith) to this grace in which we stand, and we boast I hope of the glory of God.

Not only that, but we even boast of our afflictions, knowing that affliction produces endurance,
and endurance, proven character, and proven character, hope,
and hope does not disappoint, because the love of God has been poured out into our hearts through the Holy Spirit that has been given to us.

Blessed by 99 year old Priest

Today our destination is Estella. We decided to treat ourselves to a B & B with A/C! We got there early enough to drop off our bags and walk around town with a lighter load.

As we were walking towards the Camino Route with our light packs and sticks an older man sitting in a car, said ‘Buen Camino’ to us. We walked closer to him, and he shared a bit of his story with us;
He first walked the Camino in May of 1952, 64 years ago. We told him that was the year we were born. Then he told us he is 99 years old now, and how much the Camino has changed over the years. He said he is a Catholic Priest and lives in an apartment by the fountain in the ‘old district’ on the Camino. He watches Pilgrims pass by daily and prays for them as they pass by. I asked him if he would give us a blessing before we left. I think that made his day- it certainly was special for us! We don’t think many people actually stop to talk to him. He was very happy to bless us and have his picture taken with me.

The sights we saw in Estella- the Church of San Pedro de la Rua, the Palicio de los Reyes de Navarra- (the Medieval Royal Palace), the fountain in the old city square, and we walked to the very famous Fuente de Vino and the Monastery by the Bodegas Irache winery. At the wine font, you can fill your water bottle with either wine or water. We tasted the wine and filled with water. There is a sign there that translated says:
Pilgrim, if you want to arrive in Santiago with strength and vitality drink a mouthful of this great wine and overflow with happiness!

Tomorrow on to Navarrete!

Trail out of Logrono

Last night we decided we needed to evaluate our progress. The steep inclines and the extremely hot temperatures have taken their toll. We knew there would be times we needed to alter our plans to reach Santiago in our timing, so we decided today was a day to take a bus to give us the ‘bump’ we need. We took a bus from Estella to Logrono, and then we walked the 12 miles from Logrono to Navarrete. The temperature today was 97.

We have noticed the changes in agriculture from horses, sheep and cattle grazing, to corn and sunflower fields, to the vineyards we are seeing now. We think we should be seeing the grape harvest soon.

We had a very pleasant walk through a very large park outside of Logrono. It was our ‘Walk in the Park’! They had a trail system shared by the Camino trail that lot’s of locals use. Very friendly folks, many of whom wished us a Buen Camino.

Another discovery – we are tired after walking all day, and would like to retire for the evening early, however the restaurants in the small villages don’t start serving dinner until 8:00 pm! The good consequence is that the Pilgrims dinner in these restaurants is phenomenal! You get a 3 course dinner with wine for 10 Euros/p.

Not Vicki’s favorite Camino walking surface

Today’s forecast is again for sunshine and 95 degrees! We were on the road at 7:30, hoping to finish our 15 miles by 3. Today was a lot of up and down hills (72 flights of stairs), mostly through vineyards. Steve…I enjoyed seeing the many vineyards, sampling the grapes, and noticing that the trellising system used on the newer plantings were identical to my small vineyard (VSP-Vertical Shoot Positioning).

Shortly after we started walking today, a man that was jogging went back to get his hat. When he met up with us the second time, he slowed down to talk to us. Steve enjoyed conversing with him while we walked. We introduced ourselves- his name is Alec. We probably slowed down his pace, but Alec sure had us pick up ours!

Alec is a resident of the village of Navarette, and walks 10km every morning. He walked and chatted with us for an hour, which we thoroughly enjoyed.

The red rock hills after Najera reminded us of Sedona, AZ. We were again rewarded by beautiful vistas after we would reach the top of the hill.

We did reach our destination at 3:00P

Steve standing by high straw pile

Today was a day of ‘Firsts’ for us!
The first day of (very welcome) cooler weather, a light rain in the morning (which actually felt good) and we got to break in our rain gear. Today we walked 16 miles, and 68 flights of stairs.

The landscape has changed from fewer vineyards to wheat fields. The fields are harvested and have huge stacks of straw bales.

Steve discovered at lunch yesterday, that in this wine country, vino is a lot cheaper than beer. A glass of wine is .60, and beer is 2.80 Euros!

We walked on mostly gravel roads today, but had a couple of short sections along a highway- those sections are among our least favorite sections.

Tomorrow we enter a new province- Burgos.

Goal- Get smiles, worked for us!

Last night as we looked at the terrain we were going to encounter, we decided our destination should be Villafranca Montes de Oca. We had to get an early start to reach our 19 mile destination. We chose to end at Villafranca since we wanted to be fresh for the 7.5 miles of ‘no food or beverages available’ enroute for the steep climb to Alto de Pedraja.

This morning it was cool and misty when we left, which turned into light rain. By mid morning the sun was out and we had a nice afternoon to complete our trek.

We have entered into a new province- Castilla y Lyon, and we are now in the Burgos district of that province. The terrain we see is now mostly wheat and sunflower fields, but there are still several large vineyards in the area.

Shortly after Belorado we saw 2 guys approaching us ( they we walking from Santiago) – one had a huge white teddy bear on his back! That ridiculous sight made us laugh! We took our picture with them. The told us they are on a mission to make people smile on the Camino, and also raise money for toys for kids. Their destination is Barcelona.

In Tostanos we saw the Ermita de la Pena, an isolated shrine built into the cliffs. It reminded us of Petra.

We had lunch in Villambistia, and when we found the Inglesia San Esteban, ( Church of St Steven), I made Steve stop for a photo.

Tomorrow our destination is Cardenuela Riopico.

Pilgrims Communal dinner at Al. Santa Fe

We left Villafranca at 7:30 for our very long trek up hill. It was very scenic, most of it through wooded areas, with an occasional opening for magnificent views.

After a couple hours hiking we came to “el Oasis de Camino”. There were benches, and an eclectic mix of flowers, flags, and wooden art. It was a pleasant respite.

We arrived at St Juan de Ortega in time for an early lunch.
We passed through the cities of Ages, and Atapuerca, (in cave excavations outside of Atapuerca, remains of early humans- over 1,000,000 years old have been discovered). None of them remain here – they are in museums in Burgos).

After Atapuerca we had another steep climb. This was a very difficult route through trails of loose, large rocks and a varied large rock rough terrain.

We were very happy when we could see our destination of Cardenuela Riopico off in the distance.

Today we walked over 17 miles, and 123 flights of stairs. In talking to other pilgrims, we all agree – the days have not gotten any easier!

We stayed at Albergue Santa Fe. I booked a private room with ensuite – a nice treat after a long day. They had a communal pilgrim dinner- which we really enjoyed! It’s always fun to meet up with other people and share experiences. At our dinner there were 8 Italians and a couple – Bill and Joy from New Zealand.

Steve really enjoyed talking to them since they sailed around the world. A dream Steve had that I didn’t share!

Camino parallel to freeway

Our original plan was to stay 2 nights in Burgos. It is a beautiful town, which we really enjoyed, but with most things closed on Mondays, we moved on to Tradajos, about 8.5 miles away.

We left after a late (8:00 am) breakfast. Steve was very happy to finally have a good and plentiful breakfast to enjoy – eggs, fruit, meat, assorted breads and cheeses, as well as juices and coffee. The typical pilgrim breakfast we get is a small cup of coffee, and OJ, and a piece of toast!

You don’t need to be jealous of our trek here! It was hot, dusty, and unspectacular views along a highway! Nothing to distract our progress.

We stopped in a bar in Tradajos for a break, and to call ahead for a double room. We were finding all doubles sold out. As we were leaving we noticed above the bar was Pension Mary. It is owned by the bar- small and clean and a great value. It’s just not marketed well, so people can’t find it!!! We have the place to ourselves!

Nice people run the place- their daughter was extremely helpful translating for us to get a place for tomorrow night.